Journal 7 March - 16 March 2008

15 & 16 March 2008 - Days 24 & 25, Phuket

We're having a great deal of fun. Adriane and I are endlessly amusing one another like puppies chewing at each other's necks. This trip has been throrougly enjoyable, interesting, and worthwhile. I'm grown concerned that perhaps my writing and pictures are being read in a negative tone. I don't mean for this weblog to be a whingy outlet for personal cynicism. Our time here has truly been fantastic.

Although I don't wish to sound cynical about our experiences the last few days on Phi Phi island were very unpleasant...

In the night she was sick from heat stroke, Adriane in Phuket Town guesthouse

Please scroll down to the 12th until the 14th of March for photos of our Phi Phi journey.

At about 7:50am last Wednesday the 12th, I found myself squashed between one hippy traveller and the driver of our transfer van, profusely sweating because of the lack of airconditioning in my direction and being frequently punched in the leg by the van's gear stick. The transfer was not long so I saved my complaints until now. Our destination was a ferry and the ferry's destination was Phi Phi. I had great expectations.

The ferry does a lap of Phi Phi Lay before mooring at Phi Phi Don. Phi Phi Lay is a smaller island and is entirely national park so preserved for day trippers - also the famous location for the film 'The Beach'. Giant limestone cliffs, crystal clear water, fine white sand, caves and wearing at water level give the impression the dramatic island is floating like an organic alien aircraft. Swarms of speadboats and longboats buzz around like small fighters from Star Wars. The vessels possess a multifarious collection of minimally clad round and rouge tourists. But I don't think the large number of tourists detracts from the experience. We wind into a collective excitement and the group gleams toward the island.

We disembark at Phi Phi Don, meet our hotel chaperone and toss our bags into his trolley. There are no roads or cars on Phi Phi. The tight alleys are lined with diving tours, bars, foreign flavoured restaraunts, pirated DVD stores, guesthouses, and a great deal of rubbish. We check in but our room isn't ready for another hour so we head out for some cheap Thai food. None of the menus are cheap nor do they seem 'authentic' to the region. Westernised and overpriced. There are more tourists than Thais so supply and demand won out with Pad Thai and sandwiches. We settle into somewhere recommended by our guide book and have an average meal.

Our accommodation was a splurge. All of the hotels and guesthouses on Phi Phi are expensive compared to the mainland, the problem is it doesn't mean they are good. As a treat we signed up for airconditioning, double bed, hot shower, continental breakfast, beach views, pool, and cable television BUT only a thick blanket to sleep under, no soap for shower, vacinity to beach is also to stupidly loud mash of tasteless music until 2am, the pool is much smaller than in the photo, cable TV movie channels are B-grade HBO and cinemax, the windows have no fly screen and the ceiling has no fan so you have to use airconditioning, the flight of stairs to our room would be equivalent to about six stories, the continental breakfast included is cold scrambled eggs, rubber sausages, luke warm tea, and again rubbish is everywhere. The positive side to the crummy hospitality is that international corporations are not running them, they are all local, and hey you go to Phi Phi to see natural beauty and not be couped up in airconditioned hotel rooms. Unless of course you get sick...

I'm sure tonnes of people have an incredible experience of Phi Phi. Avid divers and rockclimbers probably find a slice of utopia. Party driven backpackers glow amid the bars and bikinis. But in our time there we realised that our fascination with place is more to do with people. Adriane and I are both interested in social culture and we thoroughly enjoy meeting local people and experiencing local customs. On Phi Phi I couldn't get past the rubbish.

Wednesday afternoon we strolled around the bay until a sudden downpour trapped us undercover for about 10 minutes. On the way home an urgency for a toilet took hold. I scurried into the closest bar and exploded their toilet - not a good sign. I began to feel strange.

Pizza was great. A romantic beer in the beach, just the two of us. I still didn't feel right.

Thursday was shocking. We wouldn't be exporing the local islands or booking any tours. My temperature rose as the day went on. I felt very sick and tired. Adriane fell from the heavens that evening and took extra good care of me. She stayed up late watching crappy movies and subdued my fever with damp towels. All I could think about was the rubbish everywhere. It had infected me some how. I hated Phi Phi.

Apparently it is expensive to ship rubbish to the mainland so I guess no business wants to take responsibility for nearby trash. It simply builds up along foot paths and unclaimed pockets of land. A further shame is after the tsunami Phi Phi had a clean slate for planning sustainable development amongst prestine beauty - they blew it. I strongly recommend not to stay on the island - do a day trip from Phuket or Krabi, or find a friend with a super yacht - its good to support local businesses but not if they engage in environmentally unsustainale commerce.

Friday morning I awoke to no fever. A rush of relief overwhelmed me because I didn't need to see a doctor. I was dizzy over the cold scrambled eggs and we were both fed up with island. We decided not to search for a cheaper place to stay and instead take a long boat to Phi Phi Lay for a couple of hours in time to grab the afternoon ferry back to Phuket.

Maya beach was incredible and we had a great time. The longboat and snorkelling were good fun. Time up, we ended the longboat's gunga session with his mates and headed back to the ferry. It was hot.

We had a lot of sun that day and both ended up with headaches. Adriane was sick in the evening. I thought I was dreaming when I saw her vomiting into a waste paper basket in the corner of our room. Poor thing. I was fatigued and to this day don't feel 100%. So thats why I haven't updated the weblog for quite some time. I'm sorry to anyone frequently checking. We are drained and concentrating on recuperation over this weekend. Sickness continues to creep up on our tired bodies. Nevetheless, we'll be fine and we are forever laughing.

Not too much planned for the upcoming week. Adriane's cousins are holidaying here in Patong from Thursday. She is very excited and I think they will have a great time. I really look forward to being in Bangkok by the end of the month.

Wake Adriane from her nap and venture out for some tasty lunch.

Weekend cost = guesthouse (200) (175) + french breakfast (100) + roti with beef curry (30) + 7L water (80) + fried chicken (100) + coffee (35) + DVD rental (20) + 3kg laundry (150) + pork omelette with rice and drink (70) + coffee (35) + paw paw (10) + basil and chilli oysters, garlic whole red snapper, clear soup and pepsi (250)

1255 baht (AUD$43) - expensive

14 March 2008 - Day 23, Phi Phi to Phuket

Maya Bay, Phi Phi Lay

We had a great time snorkelling with the colourful fish and colourful Europeans, Maya Bay, Phi Phi Lay

Longboat back to Phi Phi Don just in time to make the ferry back to Phuket

Glad to be back, Phuket Town

Human beauty, Phuket Town

Desert at MK's suki-yaki restaraunt, Phuket Town

Notes: Woke up without fever but feeling dizzy, crappy breakfast provided by hotel, contemplate if we should go back or look for a cheaper place to stay for a couple more nights, lose my credit card in bank machine, freak out, cancel card, decide not to stay here any longer, run into bank lady at ATM and she has my card, cannot unblock card, get long boat to Maya Beach (The Beach), swim and snorkel, ferry back to Phuket very hot and too much sun, both have headaches, check in to arty guesthouse but soon realise it is no good, suki-yaki for dinner, Adriane very tired with temperature, wake to Adriane bending over a bin in the corner of our room vomitting, she eats some pretzils with panadol and goes back to sleep.

Today cost = longboat ride (500) + 3L water (60) + softdrinks on ferry (60) + suki-yaki (150) + guesthouse (225)

995 baht (AUD$35) - expensive

13 March 2008 - Day 22, Phi Phi

Phi Phi fever

Retire to the hotel room for a night of fever and anxiety, Phi Phi Don

Notes: sick - fever, diarrhoea, beach, Adriane looks after me while watching B-grade cable TV

Today cost = hotel (1250) + chicken with rice and vegies (100) + 3L water (60)

1410 baht (AUD $49) - expensive

12 March 2008 - Day 21, Phuket to Phi Phi

8:30 am ferry from Phuket to Phi Phi, boarding

Ferry from Phuket to Phi Phi

Ferry tour of Phi Phi Lay island before mooring at Phi Phi Don

Snapshot of famous Maya Beach - an iconic location from the film 'The Beach' starring Leonardo Dicaprio

A wide variety of food on the menu is not a good sign, Phi Phi food

Adriane was not impressed with Pineapple Fried Rice so we swapped, Phi Phi

Phi Phi stinks, rubbish everywhere

Phi Phi rubbish along footpath

Notes: ferry to Phi Phi, hotel standards hopeless, swimming in bay not nice, more tourists than Thais, rubbish everywhere - expensive to ship to mainland so who is responsible?

Today cost = Phi Phi hotel room (1250) + open Phi Phi ferry ticket to Phuket Town (400) + pineapple rice (130) + minibar coke (40) + bruschetta and pizza (135) + beer on the beach (80) + water (30)

2065 baht (AUD$71) - splurge

11 March 2008 - Day 20, Phuket

Adriane calling home, Phuket

Sundown in Phuket Town

Notes: Visited a funny doctor about Adriane's red spots - he diagnosed as insect bites - and we got some more anti-malaria pills, gave a copy of my new DVD to cafe owners where we have been hanging out (www.room2521.com)

Today cost = guesthouse (175) + laundry (50) + roti, murtabuk, chicken curry (50) + motorbike taxi (80) + doctor appointment and 90 malaria tablets (1500) + ferry ticket to Phi Phi (450) + chilli and basil squid, pork Thai omellete, greens, beer (150) + coffee (35)

2490 baht (AUD$86) - splurge

10 March 2008 - Day 19, Phuket

I haven't written for a few days now and previously when I miss an entry I usually scroll back and fill in the blanks. I now realise that some people may not scroll back in the same manner so I've decided to write about the last few days under today's heading. But first a brief update.

We've been here in Phuket for almost 3 weeks now and I guess you could say we are settling in. That said, it is not as though everyday life is no longer an adventure. We still brace ourselves when crossing roads or riding motorbikes, constantly watch for holes in the foot-path deep enough to swallow a leg, unwillingly collect plastic bottles emptied of drinking water, discover new food by eating out every meal, reach the essence of communication when all words become useless, and wake up each day thinking of where to go next and when. Homesickness sometimes pays a visit, usually when Adriane is alone. But we keep busy, especially with no TV, a short journey to the local night market sparks the spirit as well as filling the tummy. Reassuringly, daily life could never be the same for us here as it is in Australia.

By the end of March we intend to leave Phuket for Bangkok. We both feel we are not ready to commit to staying here much longer. The desire to see the region and keep moving is greater than our love for this island and the life it offers us. From Bangkok we will get the sleeper train to Chiang Mai in the north and return to Bangkok for a week or so. Throughout May and June we will probably be in Cambodia and Vietnam, maybe even Laos.

The next few weeks should be great. In a couple of days we are going to Phi Phi for a short stay which is very exciting and then probably explore more of the beaches and bays of Phuket.

On to some highlights of the last few days.

Last Friday the 7th was memorable. Not so much for the huge shopping centre that lacked a quality CD shop but the evening party and drinking that followed. It is difficult to attract Adriane to a meal of seafood when its just the two of us, but when Thais take us to dinner it is inevitable - and she usually enjoys it. On Friday I was very surprised at her eagerness to scoff down mussels, garlic squid, and even raw prawns - which I took a moment to contemplate. The prawns were great - raw but marinated in fresh garlic and chilli with a spicy dipping sauce - Thai sashimi. Following the undercooked dinner we found a small bar down the road celebrating its opening. The area where we are staying is home to a very healthy young bohemian community that seems to jointly own a bunch of businesses like coffee shops, bars, and guesthouses. We met some great people. Eduardo was attending with his guitar and Brazillian melodies - who Adriane chatted up for about half an hour swapping life stories. We laughed and sang. I drank too much beer again and had a horrible hangover Saturday.

07 March 2008, Phuket party police keeping us off the street, Phuket

We have two maps of Phuket town. One is smaller and more convenient to carry in a pocket, the other is a bit larger and has more advertising all over it. When we have a free afternoon or morning we often look for somewhere to walk to. We had heard of an old temple nearby that was worth checking out, about 3 or 4 kms away - a decent walk. I regretfully had gotten used to the smaller less detailed map which after 2 hours of being lost and facing dumbfounded locals trying to be helpful was declared useless. We followed our instincts. The first instinct was to find somewhere Adriane could pee. We ended up walking through a villa construction site and sure enough amongst the elegant roof tops was a roof with golden tips and glistening tiles. It was hot and we were tired by now but managed to clammer up to the end of the hill where a wall separated us from the temple. Actually it was not just a wall, we had reached the side of the temple that was also under construction.

Interestingly, adjacent to most large construction sights we have seen there tends to be a temporary corrugated iron village housing the workers of the site and their families.

We stood on the wall of the new villa construction peering into the back of the corrugated village belonging to the temple. Should we just walk through? Will they be nice to us? Perhaps being poor construction people they will mug us for the camera and money or simply be angry and yell. I came to the conclusion that they will be so shocked by a couple of farang popping out from behind their sheds they would certainly do us no harm. I was right and when we confronted them mumbling hello in Thai they were simply shocked. Men sitting around playing cards glanced at us and then stared at one another as if they had seen a ghost, the women giggled and voiced orders at their stunned boys, the dogs barked - also witnessing the same supernatural apparition. We kept walking only to find ourselves in an equally strange environment of the monk dorms/living quarters. These pleasant old monks were either standing there laughing as the typical round statue of Buddha does, or standing straight with fingers pointing us to the exit at the other end of the room. Finally, we were at the feet of a magnificant buddha image and temple (underconstruction). When we arrived home - in a fraction of the time - we cursed the map and realised our path on the larger version then laughed to ourselves for the rest of the evening over numerous games of whist. Oh and topped the night off with a one hour foot and hand massage.

I have spent too long writing about the last few days I am too tired to continue about today. We played a funny arcade game popular with dating couples, King of Touch 2. Adriane has an increasing number of itchy red bites/lumps that may be bed bugs. Had a hit of surprisignly decent Western food at a local pizza chain. Watched a dvd on this laptop with a can of beer. Its midnight now and Adriane has been asleep for an hour or so. I don't like finding myself awake at this hour because I won't enjoy an early morning. Goodnight.

Today cost = guesthouse (175) + french breakfast (95) + bus (20) + chicken noodle lunch (60) + motorbike taxi (60) + pizza (150) + coffee (35) + DVD rental (20) + 4.5L water (50) + can of beer (25)

690 Baht (AUD$24) - moderate

9 March 2008 - Day 18, Phuket

Finding our way with a hopeless map, Wat Thep Khachonchit U-thut Samakkhi Tham, Phuket

Old town, Phuket Town

Homesick at sunset from room 31, Phuket Town

Today cost = guesthouse (175) + laundry (55) + coffee & cake (90) + 3L water (30) + 1h foot massage (250) + satay sticks and noodle soup (75)

675 baht (AUD$23) - moderate

8 March 2008 - Day 17, Phuket

Adriane top modelling for Ton in Patong, Phuket

Today cost = guesthouse (175) + ice tea with fruit salad (80) + 3L water and snack (60)

315 baht (AUD$11) - cheap

7 March 2008 - Day 16, Phuket

Omelette, chocolate croissant and coffee for breakfast, Phuket

Phuket dog

Buddhist advice - 'Think before doing anything', Wat Puttamongkon, Phuket

Bus to Central shopping center where I hoped to find a Jeff Buckley CD for a friend, Phuket

I couldn't find the CD but we had a great Japanese lunch, Central shopping mall, Phuket

Bus back to Phuket Town

Today cost = guesthouse (175) + french breakfast (100) + bus (50) + Japanese lunch (300) + coffee (35) + mussels, raw prawns, crispy pork, beers (200) + too many beers at bar (200)

1060 baht (AUD$39) - expensive but fun

14 February - 6 March 2008 (Phuket)

7 March - 16 March 2008 (Phuket/Phi Phi Island)

17 March - 28 March 2008 (Phuket)

29 March - 7 April 2008 (Phuket/Bangkok/Chiang Mai/Pai)

8 April - 18 April 2008 (Chiang Mai/Bangkok)

19 April - 28 April 2008 (Siem Reap/Phnom Penh)

29 April - 5 May 2008 (Phnom Penh/Saigon)

6 May - 15 May 2008 (Hanoi/Ninh Binh/Sapa)

16 May - 27 May 2008 (Sapa/Hanoi/Ha Long Bay/Hué/Hoi An/Doc Let/Mui Ne)

28 May - 7 June 2008 (Saigon/Phnom Penh/Siem Reap)

8 June - 15 June 2008 (Siem Reap)

16 June - 24 June (Siem Reap/KL/Austinmer)