Journal 17 March - 28 March 2008

28 March 2008 - Day 37, Phuket

Adriane got to wear her going out gown to a gym opening, Royal Phuket Marina

Notes: Working, attended a launch of a boutique gym - free grog, drove home, many things cannot be written

Today cost: guesthouse (175) + laundry (50) + motorbike taxi to office (80) + 4.5L water (45) + goodbye lunch (450) + motorbike taxi home (80) + tuk-tuk to Central (50) + roast duck with rice, soup and pepsi (55)

985 baht (AUD$35) - expensive

27 March 2008 - Day 36, Phuket

Heading to Freedom Bar at the end of a days work, Rawai, Phuket

Today cost = guesthouse (175) + Thai breakfast (90) + bus to office (20) + suki lunch (60) + beers and gin and tonics (460) + hamburger, chips, and squid (50) + taxi home (150) + rabies vaccine (1000)

2005 baht (AUD$72) - expensive

26 March 2008 - Day 35, Phuket

Monk at Wat Thep Khachonchit U-thut Samakkhi Tham, Phuket

Adriane's cousins and friends with monk at Wat Thep Khachonchit U-thut Samakkhi Tham, Phuket

Patong Poodle, Phuket

Today cost = guesthouse (175) + rice dish and banana roti (45) + fruit smoothie (60) + coffee and strawberry tart (110) + tuk-tuk around town (120) + chicken with cashews, shrimp cakes, rice and coke (100) + 1.5L water (15)

505 baht (AUD$18) - moderate

25 March 2008 - Day 34, Phuket

My wonderful friend Nat watching the off-camera flash to check if it fires - it didn't, Nikita Bar on Rawai Beach, Phuket

A strange turn of events last night have left me slightly hangover and quite under-slept. Meanwhile Adriane is on a private boat with her cousins skipping round the swaying landscapes of Phuket.

Nat and I were at a beachside bar taking photos of the premises wi-fi capibility when Nat got an unexpected call from one of her collegues saying he had to pull out of a wine tasting at the Green Man and could we take his place. We threw down our beers and decided to make our way to the wine consumption. In the spirit of The Green Man and its owner Howard, the wine tasting is actually a competition, the glasses are more than half full, and you certainly don't spit anything out. It is a blind tasting with teams and tasting notes. Each participant brings a bottle a few days earlier so the notes can be prepared and appropriate 'rounds' sorted. Last nights theme was Semillion and Pinot Noir. There was about a dozen people and around a dozen wines. Most were big name Australian fluids like Jacobs Creek, Mount Pleasant, Taylors, etc. but the Pinot Noir were mostly French and dissapointingly average. The event is held in a cramped brick cellar amid a few dangling light bulbs. Pretty much everyone there was a 50+ Brit with outward humour except of course for our team comprising of me, Nat, and a local business man making wine out of Mangosteen fruit - which he threw into the mix halfway and was kindly offered cocktail suggestions in response. Because I have a winemaker brother and our Mangosteen friend was in the industry we were deemed the 'experts'. Twelve glasses of wine later through endless laughter and thoughtful conversation the experts had won tying with two other teams leaving only one team the losers.

In Phuket its easy to forget what day of the week it is and for some people like Nat who work Monday to Friday it becomes a struggle when the clock strikes twelve on a Monday night and you find yourself with a gin and tonic in one hand, a revolutionary mangosteen cocktail in the other, and a dozen glasses of wine bubbling away in your stomach. We dramatically bid farewell to our dozen Birtish companions as though we would never see them again. I was concerned about the eldest Brit from India who didnt have the vision to focus on my face but was certain he could drive home with no problems. Nat similarly lacked accute conditions for driving and switched to autopilot back to her place - navigating through town back to my guesthouse was out of the equation.

So while Adriane was rising early this morning to meet her private boat I was awoken to the silently teaming sea vessel community of the Royal Phuket Marina. Nat was late for work and the hours of sleep were too few. Ok for me because i'm treated to a quite day in room 31 on Thalang road - nothing but buzzing motorbikes, swirling fan, and a handful of bed bugs.

After catching up on sleep the plan is to meet Adriane and the gang back in Patong for a round of dinner and Muay Thai Boxing. Should be fun.

Today cost = guesthouse (175) + eggs, bacon, sausages, rissole, toast, and tomato with coffee (80) + bus to patong (25) + drink (30) + water (15) + taxi to boxing arena (200) + 2 Heineken (200) + taxi to Phuket Town (180)

905 baht (AUD$32) - expensive

24 March 2008 - Day 33, Phuket

Sitting around waiting for the sun to lower itself. The last few days have been hot - 34ºC.

Adriane's cousins and aunt arrived last Friday and since then we've been spoilt with fun nights out in Patong. Last night we saw Simon's Cabaret (www.phuket-simoncabaret.com) which was a laugh but I think we've had our dose of ladymen. The night before we indulged in local seafood - steamed ginger and soy snapper, tom yum gung, chilli and basil clams, steamed garlic mussels, raw prawns, and grilled tiger prawns - thank you very much.

At the moment Adriane is out gallivanting withher cousins - elephant trekking, monkeys, shopping... Having a great time I hear. I think they hired a boat for tomorrow to go to James Bond Island in Phang Nga Bay. We've also been generously supplied with three jars of Vegemite - O how we craved the (in)famous yeast spread. Breakfast has never been better. Adriane is sleeping at their hotel in order to get up early for these excursions - and to be treated with hotel living for a couple of days. Last night I was restlessly tossing and turning without her next to me in our giant bug ridden bed.

I just booked our flights from Phuket to Bangkok. Next Monday we leave. We're flying One-Two-Go, the airline that crashed here late last year drastically killing 89 people. One crash is bad for business, two crashes is extremely unlikely. Their prices are very competitive.

Its exciting to see Bangkok again but sad to be leaving our new friends.

I've got a really itchy bite on my foot.

Looks like clouds have come over which is bad news for shooting. People don't like travelling to dramatic storms on the beach. On paper the sun is forever setting.

Simon Cabaret, Patong

Simon Cabaret, Patong

Desperate for 100 baht photos after the show, katoey of Simon Cabaret, Patong

Today cost = guesthouse (175) + motorbike to office (80) + suk-yaki and pepsi (70) + 3 Singha, 1 Tiger, and seafood glop glop (450) + 3 gin & tonics (420)

1195 baht (AUD$43) - expensive

23 March 2008 - Day 32, Phuket

Yesterdays trip to Patong, Phuket

Rip-off one tourist in the morning and spend the rest of the day off, Patong tuk-tuks

Visting Adriane's cousins in their hotel, Patong

Katoey (ladyboys) on Bangla Road, Patong

Getting my hands on some ladyboys, Patong

Today cost = guesthouse (175) + laundry (50) + chicken and crispy pork with rice (65) + coffee and cake (100) + bus to Patong (25) + 3L water (30) + mocktale and wedges at Mercure (260) + taxi back to Phuket Town (350)

1055 baht (AUD$38) - expensive

22 March 2008 - Day 31, Phuket

I feel I need to retract some of Thursdays bitterness towards relationships between Thai women and farang or foreigners, and offer an additional element to consider. It still dumbfounds me as to why so many beautiful Thai women choose to attach themselves to unattractive foreigners. I need to be clear that this is a phenomenon I am discussing and not a prejudice towards interracial relationships. For instance it is very rare to see a foreign woman with a Thai man. The most obvious suggestion as to the cause of the phenomenon would be money and security. Another suggestion could be that a glorified Hollywood portrayal of white people has penetrated cultures worldwide leading to a general attraction or appeal to white men. But on meeting a very educated and personable Thai woman married to an equally interesting British man I thought two things. The first was that many of these people (or men) are international by occupation and it is not specifically Thai women they seek - they may also have had wives in Africa or India for instance. The second scenario that came to mind is that perhaps customary Thai relationships are oppressive towards women or at least not as liberal as being with a foreigner. I have heard that domestic violence is a serious concern here, women carry most of the responsibility in raising children, plus females are generally paid less and hold fewer opportunities in the workplace. So perhaps it is freedom that is attractive. Perhaps the issue is with Thai men. Enough speculation for now.

Speaking of being a farang... last night we had a great time at a pub called The Green Man. The Green Man is a reproduction of a typical English country pub with an added element of mysticism surrounding the Green Man mythology. For instance there is a 'mystical staircase' leading to the second floor. To the owners surprise we had never heard of such a staircase. Three steps, turn and then five steps, turn and then seven steps equalling 15 steps all up. As you ascend the staircase the height of each step increases. The mystical staircase represents the ascent to adulthood - 15 years old was a ripe age to become a knight in shining armour. The three levels of the pub also represent the cycle of life. The ground floor being birth, the second floor adulthood, and the top floor is death. The 'death' floor ironically features an incredible cigar room where the owner claimed to have solved all the worlds problems only to forget the solutions the next morning. We tried his experiment with steak and kidney pudding, ate some nachos, and drank too much Heineken with a charming 20 year old Brit named Alistair who owns a publishing company, only eats one meal a day, and is fascinated by unconventional ancient history. Thanks to our good friend Nat we made it home safely and fell asleep grinning.

With only a week left in Phuket we are beginning to understand how to be comfortable...

A free meal and hangover from the previous night meant we could splurge on a great breakfast at the China Inn, Phuket Town

Today cost = guesthouse (175) + bacon, sausage, tomato, eggs, toast and coffee at China Inn (300) + baguette sandwich (85) + paw paw (15) + bus to Patong (25) + 1.5L water (15) + taxi back to Phuket Town (200)

815 baht (AUD$28) - expensive

21 March 2008 - Day 30, Phuket

Moved back to room 31 with a balcony. Took some photos at The Green Man and got comfortable until midnight.

The Green Man, Phuket

Today cost = guesthouse (175) + roti with chicken curry (50) + 4.5L water (50) + tuk tuk to office (100) + 3 pints, nachos, steak & kidney pudding, plus Australian wine (free)

375 baht (AUD$13) - cheap

20 March 2008 - Day 29, Phuket

Farang means foreigner in Thai. I have read the word is either derived from the French faràngsèht or the result of local tongues not being able to pronounce 'foreigner'. It is difficult to apply a general word like farang in Australia because its citizens have immigrated from very diverse locations. Appearance or accent alone cannot determine Australian-ness. In Japan the word gaijin similarly denotes anyone that is not Japanese - and sometimes even people of mixed anscestry. Neither farang or gaijin are necessarily derrogatory but both have the potential given the behaviour of the visiting party.

A key difference however between farang and gaijin - this is just speculation - is foreigners in Thailand have developed this name for themselves based on the similarity or unity in their behaviour and the culture they bring or encrourage in the local population. Whereas in Japan the reverse occurs. The local population have such a strong unity in their behaviour and culture that all foreigners are so distinctly different to be given a name - gaijin.

I often find it difficult being a farang in Phuket. Not for prejudicial or assimilation reasons but from mere embarrassment. Everywhere we go there are white men with Thai women hanging off their shoulders. These couples are of all ages and the men come from a multitude of caucasion nationalities. In the tourist areas they are most likely hooking up over a holiday or simply overt prostitution. But everywhere we visit there are such couples living as husband and wife - either based here or coming back for a holiday. Some of the farang husbands embrace the culture and learn the language but others are more arrogant and claim to be 'tone deaf'. Nevertheless I envisage the beginning of these more long term relationships also occuring at a bar on a tourist strip as either covert prostitution or economic exploitation.

These are generalisations, I know, and many farang truly love the local culture and happened to also fall in love with a local woman, who also loves them, they learn each others language and live happily ever after in a symbiotic relationship. However, I suspect many more are degenerates of their homes and have followed their penises to a land of hassle free cheap satisfaction. An appealing prospect.

Adriane and I have both being quite shocked at this phenomenon and wonder what Thai people really think of farang. We don't like them (or us?). Even when we ask Thai friends we seem to get a reserved response, "We love foreigners here..." or the more Buddhist response, "Thai people see everyone as the same". More recently we reassuringly heard that no, Thai people aren't stupid and the majority realise that most farang living here are degenerates taking advantage of a developing society. But a lot of business comes from foreign degenerates. Even if they forever assume to be boss.

The more I think about the phenomenon the further it sinks as a moral, ethical, and legal dilemma.

Morally, I like to think of women as equal to men and relationships should be formed on level footing. Communication should be accurate. Culture should be respected. Intentions should be blatantly open and honest.

Ethically I see the phenomenon as exploiting a developing country. Im sure it has negative implications to local community ties, culture, and the sustainability of the economy.

Even as a legal dilemma farang are misbehaving. Signs line shop front windows for the cheapest and fastest "VISA run" - a 10 hour minibus ride to the Thai-Burma border and back. It would be rare to find people working professionaly in Australia without a work visa. In Phuket working without a permissible visa seems as common as coffee with breakfast. But what about skilled employment for the local population?

Anyway its certainly proving fascinating for me. I just hope its not seriously raping the society.

Thalang Guesthouse, Phuket Town

Today cost = guesthouse with a/c (225) + bus to office (20) + burmese noodle soup (45) + motorbike taxi (80) + laundry (80) + water, drinks and snacks (80) + Italian dinner (330)

860 baht (AUD$30) - expensive

19 March 2008 - Day 28, Phuket

Feeling good!

The beach was beautiful this morning - much needed.

Later on in the evening we had a few drinks with friends at the famous 'Floyd's Brasserie' in Patong but unfortunately didn't try the cuisine.

Bus to Karon Beach, Phuket Town

Bubs on moto 1, Phuket

Today cost = guesthouse with a/c (225) + bus to Karon beach and back (50) + baguette sandwich (80) + motorbike to office (80) + fried rice and ice tea (70)

505 baht (AUD$18) - moderate

18 March 2008 - Day 27, Phuket

We asked to change rooms this morning because of the bed bugs. The owners appeared familiar with the problem and have now dismantled what was room 21. The third room we have stayed in at this guest house is room 33. Each room has subtle personality differences. This room, number 33, is a 'rooftop' holding and lacks the adjoining balconies of 21 and 31. Room 33 basks in the sun for most of the day and gets very hot. We paid the extra 100 baht for airconditioning and have since found ourselves cuddling and enjoying bodily warmth for the first time in a few weeks. Usually it is too hot to simply lay down and hold one another.

The subtle differences between rooms make significant changes to daily life. For example room 21 has a safe (room 33 also has a safe except our lock does not fit the hole). The safe is large enough to store the laptop, harddrive, Canon G9, iPod, and passports - a significant storage in terms of physical mass and personal value. Room 31 has a blacony on the top floor over looking the busy Thalang road - it really makes you feel part of the action. However room 31 has no furnishings whereas 21 is over furnished. A very frustrating quality of many bathrooms I have experienced so far in Thailand is the lack of a pipe from the sink in the bathroom. The water simply falls to the ground splashing all over your feet and gradually makes its way to a drain in the corner. Room 21 features a pipe. The tribulations of Aaron and Adriane.

Our general health has not yet reached a desirable state. Soar throats, itchy bites, runny bums. I took an antibiotic today in the hope it will cure something.

I think we'll try and get up early-ish tomorrow and head to the beach for the morning and be back for lunch. The salt water should be good for our bites and souls.

Today cost = guesthouse (175) + airconditioning (50) + danish and coffee (80) + chicken noodles (60) + bus to office and back (50) + water (30) + tom yum soup with rice (80) + ice coffee (30)

555 baht (AUD$19) - moderate

17 march 2008 - Day 26, Phuket

Fried chicken and rice at the local night market, Phuket Town

Night market, Phuket Town

When I sit down to write, usually late at night, I find myself reflecting inwardly on the day's activities. Usually this process reveals a secondary aspect or perspective to the actual experience. For most of today I have been riding a thought concerning health and activity. If I am completely healthy then my attention to the activity at hand is also complete. On the other hand if I am sick and effectively 'inactive' then my attention is entirely inward, focused on healing and recovery or immediate relief of symptoms. Furthermore, if I am a little bit sick or enduring itchy bites, for example, and I am well enough to engage in most activities but to some degree troubled by the ailment then my attention becomes split. Inward and outward. A balancing act. Mild sickness is rarely on/off. You might be walking to the shop and realise how tiring it is and have to slow down, or slipping on some shorts only to find yourself scratching a bite on your ankle. This is all obvious so far. But whenever the sickness seeks attention a significant psychological shift occurs. You become the activity.

The signifcance of this frequent shifting between inward and outward experience should not be underestimated. It is tiring. At least I find it tiring. Doubt is thrown upon the shoulders of all activity when experiencing an illness or ailment. The limits become blurred. Anxiety sets in. Anger. Depression. Reflection. Something as simple as a sore throat can be trouble for days. Will it get worse? Is it glandular fever? How did I get it? Whats the best treatment? Should I drink coffee? The boundaries built in the experience of being healthy, the maximum setting, become misleading. Perhaps over the years we build experience with sickness and learn how to behave accordingly, however, sickness is rarely the same. We build immunity to bugs but unfortunatetly they also build immunity to us. Sickness is inevitable. In my superficial encounters with Buddhism I found this is a signifcant part of its teachings. Sickness is part of life. We are never either 'sick' or 'healthy'. It is forever a balancing act requiring a disciplined mind and body to remain possitively active. Perhaps I need to learn how to treat being healthy with the same critical reflection as when I am suffering from something?

Anyway...

I've started to collect the little itchy red bites Adriane first sprung a couple of days before Phi Phi. Adriane is also collecting more since returning to this guesthouse. We think they are bed bugs and have now placed us in an annoying predicament as to the action forward. If they are bed bugs we will need to move guesthouse, or at least this room. But we really like this place. Big room, fully functional bathroom, towel rack, small desk, it even has a safe. Tomorrow we will discuss it with the staff. Room 31 above us, our original room, features fewer furnishings and erroneous plumbing, plus Adriane started to get the bites there before we left. This room (21) and 31 are the only ones with the balcony so we may have to move guesthouse. Unfortunate.

In addition to the bites I still don't feel completely normal since Phi Phi fever. I often feel a little dizzy or weak but never overwhelmingly so. Bowel contents also lack solidity.This is why I though of those first paragraphs. Sick enough to go on with normal activity, but strangely disorientated with a slight ailment, leading to a taste of discomfort and anxiety. I find it very difficult to ignore and if it continues much longer im sure it will lower team morale.

I did discover one way to overcome the balancing act. Overwhelm the senses. Adriane and I ventured into a beautiful cafe we have been meaning to go to but it is frequently closed. The China Inn. We had an incredible lunch amid a tranquil courtyard garden. Duck breast and mango salad, chicken breast with yoghurt and apple salad, lemon, mint, and honey iced juice, watermelon and mint ice shake. A real treat that was completely unexpected. Admittedly it was expensive (about AUD$30 all up) but well worth it. Sore throat, dizzyness, itchy bites, were left at the door to attend passing traffic. Excellent.

China Inn Café, Phuket Town

I thought we had a shoot this evening but it was cancelled. Instead we had a simple dinner at the night markets and then settled in to a nearby cafe for coffee, internet, and a slice of cake from the birthday girl working there (www.room2521.com). Adriane is reading many of their books. The Great Gatbsy by F. Scott Fitzgerald at the moment. One of my favourites.

Today cost = guesthouse (175) + motorbike to office and back (160) + ice coffee (35) + incredible lunch at China Inn Cafe (450) + King of Touch 2 (10) + fried chicken with rice, soup and drink (50) + coffee (35) + 3L water (15)

930 baht (AUD$32) - expensive

14 February - 6 March 2008 (Phuket)

7 March - 16 March 2008 (Phuket/Phi Phi Island)

17 March - 28 March 2008 (Phuket)

29 March - 7 April 2008 (Phuket/Bangkok/Chiang Mai/Pai)

8 April - 18 April 2008 (Chiang Mai/Bangkok)

19 April - 28 April 2008 (Siem Reap/Phnom Penh)

29 April - 5 May 2008 (Phnom Penh/Saigon)

6 May - 15 May 2008 (Hanoi/Ninh Binh/Sapa)

16 May - 27 May 2008 (Sapa/Hanoi/Ha Long Bay/Hué/Hoi An/Doc Let/Mui Ne)

28 May - 7 June 2008 (Saigon/Phnom Penh/Siem Reap)

8 June - 15 June 2008 (Siem Reap)

16 June - 24 June (Siem Reap/KL/Austinmer)